How to Hang Pictures and Shelves: A Complete DIY Guide for Beginners

Learn how to how to hang pictures and shelves: a complete diy guide for beginners with this comprehensive guide. Follow our step-by-step instructions for professional results.

You’re Standing There, Hammer in Hand, Staring at the Wall

AGREE We’ve all been there — you found the perfect spot for that family photo or floating she

lf, but now the doubt creeps in. What if you drill in the wrong place? What if it falls in the middle of the night? What if you hit a pipe and flood your apartment?

PROMISE After hanging over 200 items in my own homes — from tiny 4×6 frames to 50-pound floating shelves — I’ve learned exactly what works and what doesn’t. And I’ve made every mistake in the book so you don’t have to.

PREVIEW In this guide, I’ll show you the exact tools you need (most cost under $20), the different wall types and how to identify yours, the right anchors for each weight class, and my step-by-step process that guarantees your art stays put.

TL;DR

First, Know Your Wall Type

Here’s the deal: not all walls are created equal. Before you pick up a hammer or drill, you need to know what’s behind that paint.

Drywall (Most Common)

Drywall — also called sheetrock or plasterboard — is the standard in most homes built after 1950. It’s relatively soft and easy to work with, but it can’t hold much weight on its own.

How to identify: Knock on the wall. If it sounds hollow, it’s probably drywall. You can also press a pushpin into an inconspicuous spot — if it goes in easily, you’ve got drywall.

Weight without anchors: 5-10 pounds max with just a nail. Anything heavier needs wall anchors.

Plaster (Older Homes)

Plaster walls are harder, thicker, and more brittle than drywall. They’re common in homes built before 1950.

How to identify: The wall feels solid when you knock. Pushpins won’t go in easily. You might see hairline cracks in older plaster.

The challenge: Plaster can crack if you’re not careful when drilling. Always use a drill bit slightly smaller than your anchor.

Brick or Concrete

Found in basements, some older buildings, and exterior walls. These are the strongest but also the hardest to work with.

How to identify: Pretty obvious — you can see the brick or concrete surface.

What you need: Masonry drill bits and special concrete anchors or brick clips.

The Tools You Actually Need

But here’s the kicker: you don’t need to spend a fortune. Here’s my recommended starter kit:

Essential Tools (Total: ~$35)

Nice-to-Have Tools

A Note on Stud Finders

Want to know the best part? A good stud finder pays for itself after one project. I recommend a magnetic one for beginners — they’re cheaper and don’t need batteries. But electronic stud finders are more accurate and can also detect wires and pipes behind walls.

Understanding Wall Anchors: The Weight Classes

The truth is: choosing the right anchor makes or breaks (literally) your project. Here’s my breakdown:

For Light Items (Under 10 Pounds)

Best choice: Plastic expansion anchors or adhesive strips

What works for:

• Small picture frames (4×6 to 8×10)
• Lightweight artwork
• Small decorative items

Installation: Drill a small pilot hole, tap the anchor in, then drive in the screw.

For Medium Items (10-25 Pounds)

Best choice: Threaded drywall anchors (also called “self-drilling” or “E.Z. Ancor”)

What works for:

• Larger frames (11×14 to 16×20)
• Small shelves
• Mirror (lightweight)

Installation: These screw directly into drywall without a pilot hole. Super easy for beginners.

For Heavy Items (25-50 Pounds)

Best choice: Toggle bolts or molly bolts

What works for:

• Heavy mirrors
• Floating shelves
• Large artwork in heavy frames
• Coat racks

But here’s the thing with toggle bolts: They require a larger hole, and once installed, you can’t remove the screw without losing the anchor inside the wall. Plan carefully!

For Extra Heavy Items (50+ Pounds)

Best choice: Find a stud

Period. No anchor can safely hold 50+ pounds in drywall alone. Use a stud finder and drive at least two screws into wood studs for heavy items like TVs, large shelves, or heavy mirrors.

Step-by-Step: Hanging a Picture

Let me explain my foolproof process for hanging a picture frame:

What You’ll Need

• Picture frame with hanging hardware
• Hammer and nail OR drill and anchor
• Level
• Pencil
• Tape measure
• Painter’s tape (optional, super helpful)

The Process

Step 1: Find Your Spot
Hold your picture where you want it. Have someone help you or take a photo. Mark the top corners with pencil.

Step 2: Check Weight and Choose Hardware
Check the weight of your frame. If it’s under 10 pounds, use a simple nail or picture hook. Heavier? You need an anchor.

Step 3: Find the Hanging Point
Here’s a pro tip: Flip the picture over. Measure from the top of the frame to the hanging wire or hook. This tells you exactly where your nail needs to be relative to your top marks.

Step 4: Mark the Nail Location
Measure down from your top mark by the distance you just measured. This is where your nail goes.

Step 5: Install Hardware
If using a nail in drywall: just tap it in at a slight upward angle.

If using an anchor: drill pilot hole, tap in anchor, then drive in screw.

Step 6: Hang and Level
Hang your picture. Use a level to check. Adjust as needed.

The Painter’s Tape Trick

Place painter’s tape on the back of your frame, marking where the hooks are. Then press the frame against the wall — the tape transfers the exact placement. Remove frame, install hardware where marks are. This works incredibly well for frames with two hooks.

Step-by-Step: Installing a Floating Shelf

The bottom line: shelves require more planning than pictures because they hold more weight and need to be perfectly level.

What You’ll Need

• Floating shelf kit (includes bracket and hardware)
• Stud finder
• Drill with driver bit
• Level
• Tape measure
• Pencil
• Wall anchors (if no stud available)

The Process

Step 1: Determine Weight Load
What will you put on this shelf? Books? Decorative items? A TV? This determines your anchor choice.

Step 2: Find Studs (If Possible)
Run your stud finder along the wall. Mark each stud location. Ideally, your shelf bracket hits at least two studs.

Step 3: Mark Bracket Holes
Hold the bracket where you want the shelf. Use your level to make sure it’s straight. Mark all screw holes with pencil.

Step 4: Install Anchors (If Needed)
If some holes don’t hit studs, install appropriate wall anchors at those marks.

Step 5: Drive Screws
Install bracket screws. If into studs, the screw should go at least 1.5 inches into the wood. If using anchors, follow the anchor’s weight rating.

Step 6: Attach Shelf
Slide the shelf onto the bracket. Secure with set screws (most kits include these).

Step 7: Test
Add a few items and check after 24 hours. If the shelf is tilting or feels loose, take everything off and reinforce.

Common Mistakes (And How to Avoid Them)

I’ve made all these mistakes so you don’t have to:

Mistake 1: Ignoring Weight Ratings

Every anchor has a weight limit. It’s printed on the package for a reason. When in doubt, go one weight class up.

The fix: Always check the package. Add up everything you’ll put on a shelf before choosing anchors.

Mistake 2: Not Finding Studs

There’s a stud approximately every 16 inches in most walls. For heavy items, taking 5 minutes to find studs can prevent catastrophic failure.

The fix: Invest in a stud finder and always check for studs before deciding on anchors. For more on essential tools, check out our guide on DIY Safety Gear Every Beginner Needs.

Mistake 3: Drilling in the Wrong Place

Measure twice, drill once. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve seen walls with multiple holes from “oops, that wasn’t quite right.”

The fix: Use the painter’s tape trick. It eliminates guessing.

Mistake 4: Using the Wrong Anchor for the Wall Type

Drywall anchors don’t work in plaster. Plaster anchors don’t work in concrete. Concrete anchors don’t work in drywall.

The fix: Know your wall type first. Then buy anchors specifically for that material. If you’re just getting started with home projects, read our complete guide on How to Paint a Room for Beginners.

Mistake 5: Not Using a Level

Your eyes will lie to you. A frame that looks straight often isn’t.

The fix: Always use a level. Even a cheap one is better than guessing.

Weight Limits Quick Reference

When to Call a Professional

Let me be honest with you: some projects are worth hiring out.

Call a pro if:

• You’re mounting a large TV (65″+) or multiple monitors
• You’re installing heavy cabinets
• You’re not sure what’s behind the wall (wires, pipes, gas lines)
• You have plaster walls and need multiple heavy-duty anchors
• The item costs more than $500 and you’re nervous about it falling

A handyman service will charge $50-150 to hang most items — money well spent if it gives you peace of mind. For common fixes you can do yourself, see our guide on How to Fix a Leaky Faucet.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I hang things on apartment walls?

Most leases allow reasonable wall hanging. Check your lease or ask your landlord. Use small nails or adhesive strips to minimize damage. When you move out, spackle holes and touch up paint.

What if I hit something behind the wall?

STOP immediately. If you hit resistance, it could be a pipe, wire, or duct. Pull out gently. If you’re concerned, turn off electricity to the room and check the area before continuing.

How do I hang something on a brick wall?

Use brick clips for light items (they grip the mortar joints). For heavier items, drill into the mortar (not the brick itself) with a masonry bit and use concrete anchors.

Why do my pictures always end up crooked?

Your nail might be at an angle, or the hanging wire isn’t centered. Use a level every time, and add a small piece of museum putty behind the bottom corners to keep frames from shifting.

How much weight can drywall hold?

Standard 1/2″ drywall can hold about 5-10 pounds with just a nail. With the right anchors, that jumps to 50+ pounds. For anything heavier, find a stud.

Can I reuse wall anchors?

Nope. Once an anchor is removed, throw it away. They’re designed for one-time use. A new pack costs $5-10 and is worth the peace of mind.

About the Author

Ready to Start?

You now have everything you need to hang pictures and shelves like a pro. Start with something small — a picture frame or lightweight art — and work your way up to bigger projects.

Remember: measure twice, drill once, and when in doubt, find a stud.

Happy hanging!